I spent Wednesday
night in Osaka (right next to Kyoto) after getting off the flight
from Asahikawa then Tokyo. I woke up early this morning and hopped
on a train for Kyoto. |
The first thing that impressed me about
Kyoto was the Kyoto train station. It was immense! In Hokkaido,
the Sapporo train station is also huge, but it's all designed
to withstand cold, wintry weather. This train station was more
of a grand glass and steel structure, with long endless staircases,
vast open parts in the ceiling, and lots and lots to see. I'm
not sure what they do in case of snow or torrential rain, but
it was still amazing nonetheless.
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The stage version of Beauty and the Beast was coming to the theatre
in a month or so
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The long staircase (or escalator) to the top right side
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The glass ceiling
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My first stop of the day was Ginakaku
Temple. Ginkakuji Temple, a Zen temple, was built in 1482 by Ashikaga
Yoshimasa, the eighth in the line of Muromachi Shogun who basically
ruled Japan. He, as most rulers like him, built it to be his retirement
home. Also, like most of the retirement homes of rulers in Kyoto,
it became a temple after his death.
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Ginkaku literally means "silver foil."
It was the Shogun's intention to cover this paviliion completely
in silver foil, however, he never was able to finish it. It was
a pretty peaceful temple and it wasn't really crowded at that
time in the morning yet.
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When most people think of Zen, they think of Rock Gardens. Well,
here they are...
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They are raked into different patterns often to symbolize natural
landscapes or scenes.
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That's one big ant hill...
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The view of the pavilion surrounded by fall leaves
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A staircase (I took too many pictures...)
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A rock graden from higher up the slope
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The view back down the hill from the entrance
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After leaving Ginakaku Temple, I
walked out of the exit to find myself in quite a thick crowd of
people - mostly tourists and high school students on their school
trips. However, I noticed that one small side street to the right
there were no people. I walked over and found myself in front
of a nice shrine with no people at it. I can't tell you anything
about it because I don't know any of its history, but it was a
nice stop nonetheless.
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The main entrance
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A small shrine within the shrine precints
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A guardian statue
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Running from near the entrance of
Ginkaku-ji Temple down towards the south is the "Path of
Philosophy." It was a walking path along teh stream that
linked all these temples in this area together.
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A bridge along the path
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Yes, I petted this cat and yes, it was probably a stray
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One of the stops along the Path
of Philosohpy was the Honen-in Temple. Officially called the Zenkisan
Banbukyo-dera, Honen-in is the head of the Sansei School of the
Jodo sect (got that?). This temple is where the priest Honen held
his six o'clock worship.
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A peaceful fountain
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A statue facing the main hall
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There's a story about this, but I don't know what it is...
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Another stop along the Path was Nyakuoji
Shrine. This was the water font in front of the shrine for purifying
your hands and mouth before entering.
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One of the charms of Kyoto, especially
in nice weather, was the presence of rickshaws. All throughout
the back streets and near the tourist spots were young men ready
to pull giggling high school girls along the paths in a rickshaw
(for a fee, of course).
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Towards the end of the Path of Philosophy
was Eikan-do (officially called Zenrin-ji, but apparantly no one
uses that name). In 855, the priest Shinso turned Fukiwara Sekio's
villa into this temple. It went through periods of decline and
then prosperity. Sometime between 794 and 1185, a Buddhist monastery
was built on-site, and it became more prestigious (the nickname
"Eikan-do" means "Eternal View"). However,
the temple was burnt to the ground during the Onin War, but was
fully restored afterwards.
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It was a lively place to be at that time,
because there were several buddhist monks around going about their
daily work and worship. Also, the tapestries on and around the
temple really matched well with the slowly changing leaves of
fall.
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This was taken from one of the higher temple buildings. You can
see the tapestries on the left side of the buillding, partially
obscured by the trees.
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It wasn't too windy, so I had to wait for a while in order to
get this picture...
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A
fire .. er ... water breathing dragon. I found that there were
a lot of little things in Kyoto, like this purification font,
that were just as captivating as the larger statues or buildings.
Of course, maybe I was just tired from all the walking...
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There
is an interesting story associated with this temple. In the late
11th century, a man name Eikan (hence, the temple's nickname),
who was highly respected in his time, had built a hospital for
the poor on the temple grounds. He strongly believed in Buddhism.
One day, so the story goes, Eikan was chanting the Amida Buddha's
name near the altar, when suddenly Amida Buddha came down from
the altar and began to walk ahead of Eikan. He was so surprised
that he couldn't move, which caused Amida Buddha to turn back
over His shoulder and say, "Eikan, you are dawdling."
Immediately afterwards, Eikan had a sculptor carve a statue of
the Amida Buddha with His head turned to share this story with
others. This picture is scanned from a pamphlet.
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I soon found myself amidst several more
temples. However, I really wanted to make it to Heian Shrine before
I lost too much of the day, so I decided to pass on them. I did,
however, make a stop at Sanmon. Sanmon (at the Nanzen-ji Temple)
symbolizes the three roads to Buddhist liberation and is one of
the three biggest gates in Japan. The original, built in 1296
was burned down, but later rebuilt in 1628.
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Basically, it's a really big gate.
I can imagine that back in the 1200s, it would have inspired wonder
and fear in the eyes of those who saw it. The fear factor is gone,
but it was still a wonder. The roof is made of baked clay tiles
with 5 pillars and 3 entrances. It is approx. 22 meters tall.
This picture is a view from the top.
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Another view from the top, looking out on the path.
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The stairs to get to the top were extremely steep. Somewhat of
a difficulty for someone of my size...
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Looking down the stairs from the top of the lower set of stairs.
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Here is a view of the Sanmon from the ground
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In the afternoon, I made it to Heian Jingu
(Heian Shrine). It was built in 1895 to commemorate the 1100th
anniversary of the founding of Kyoto as the capital. Two emperors
are enshrined here: Emperor Kammu, who founded Kyoto, and Emperor
Komei, the last Emperor to reside in Kyoto.
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The buildings of the shrine are scaled
down replicas of the first Imperial Palace. It's bright and colorful,
which was a nice change of pace from the antique look of most
of Kyoto's temples (or it could just be that I like orange and
I like shrines).
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The courtyard
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Dressed for success
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One of the inner buidlings
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After the Heian
Shrine, I was beat. It was about 3:00 and I decided to take a
break by stepping into the Kyoto Museum of Modern Art, which was
right next to the shrine. After that, I made my way back to the
train station and explored the station for the late afternoon.
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